Consistent Inconsistencies

Cao drugaricas! Well I’m very sad and emotional to say that our time is Sarajevo has come to a close… for now. I’m currently sitting in a small café, in a small town called Pomeno, on the island of Mjlet in Croatia. I’ll get to my sailing fun in a bit, but I should probably update on our last week in Sarajevo.

So, Ana and I were super busy, handling guests, research, creating programs, and recommendations, and throwing in some fun and adventure along the way. Cary was visiting until Tuesday, then my parents arrived Tuesday evening, and Natasa, Ana’s sister arrived on Wednesday. Needless to say, w were busy, but managed to function on few hours sleep. AND we finished our work (which I guess was the point), even though we dedicated 10+ hour days all last week. But Ana and I laughed along the way, which encouraged us along the way.

Tuesday night, my parents arrived in Sarajevo, and we took them out for Cevapi (traditional Bosnian meat that I don’t eat), took them back to our place for some drinks, and then we went for a drink to Barhana, one of our favourite pubs tucked away in an alleyway, but consistently has a great crowd and good drinks.

Wednesday morning, bright and early, Mom and Dad came with us to the centre, and after morning coffee with the mothers, Hana and Nermin, we worked on art projects with the professionals and the kids. The centre sells vases and cards at a man’s store in Sarajevo. He has one shelf in his store that the centre stocks with handmade crafts, and he sells them on the centre’s behalf. So they brought some tables outside and we all worked away on some crafts, while a few people played some sports. Ana and I then left, only to go finish up our project, for we were presenting our project to the organization on Thursday. So we were at the centre from 9-12:30, and then worked from 12:30-8pm, attempting to stay sane. We met up with my parents, Sonja, and her two wonderful friends (yay to increasing our Raja size!!) Kate and Brooke. Kate and Brooke are also from Australia, and are travelling throughout Eastern Europe. We went for dinner at the Sarajevo Brewery, a beautiful building on the south side of the river. The brewery was actually the only source of water for the people of Sarajevo through the siege. The waterlines were cut in the city, and people had to risk their lives traveling through the streets to the Brewery in order to get enough water for their families and loved ones. We had an amazing meal there filled with good company, good beer and wine, and plenty of chit chatter and laughter.

Ana left dinner a bit early to pick up Natasa at the bus station, and I met them back at the house after dinner. We caught up with Natasa over the amazing and traditional Balkanika, introducing her to our favourite Balkanika gems such as Slavi, Toni, Miki and Serevina. We then quickly got back to work, working away until 2am, when we finally finished.

Thursday morning, we touched up a few things, and then went to print and bind our package, all 100 some odd pages of it, which cost us a solid 7km, or $4.50. AMAZING! Printing that in Canada would have cost us at LEAST $20, plus an extra arm for binding. We wanted to hug the guy who helped us, but instead we gave him a 3km tip. Ana and I were so excited that we embraced in the middle of the street as we exited the print shop. We then several comments from some old men in the streets, where the literal translations don’t make sense, but the meaning was too inappropriate to repeat. Needless to say, we were grossed out by the men, but too excited to care.

We arrived at the centre, with food and drinks to enjoy while we presented. Expecting to present at 11, we were finally underway by 12:30. The informal session took approximately 2.5 hours, only to be interrupted by important phone calls, behavioural problems, and more people joining or leaving the room for this or that reason. But the whole day went wonderfully, and the mothers and professionals were very receptive to the information, engaging in conversation, asking questions, and commenting along the way. They were very excited, and were impressed with our level of expertise and professionalism.

A picture with some of the mothers and professionals following our presentation.

We finally finished around 3pm, and cleaned up, and waited for my parents to arrive before we went on the longest 10-minute drive of life. Let me explain. So, we decided to go (as a family- my parents, Ana, Natasa and myself), to Tunnel Spasa (or the tunnel of life), that is now a museum. During the war, the Serbian forces surrounded Sarajevo for the longest siege of a single city, in the world’s history. They were under attack for 43 months, and Sarajevo citizens (regardless of nationality or religion) were fighting to stay alive, and to keep the history of this wonderful place alive. Because rations were low, and water and electricity were cut, they were running out of options. The UN had made a deal with the Serb Army to take over the airport, to allow for the incoming humanitarian aid, but Serb forces surrounded the rest of the city. So the Bosnian people planned to build a tunnel under the airport, 800m long, so they could transport people and goods between Sarajevo, and the Bosnian-free territory. Needless to say, it was a really interesting museum, again making the reality of the war far too present.

I feel this is a good time to write about the consistent inconsistencies that we just came to expect during our time in Sarajevo. Wherever we go, whatever we did, nothing seemed to make sense, and you often just shrugged it off as “this is Sarajevo”. From things such as ordering a coffee, to getting directions, nothing was consistent, linear, or any other synonym of orderly. Ana and I would often order iced ness, which is like an iced latte. We thought it was a pretty standard drink, but consistently we would get different drinks ranging from an espresso shot with an ice cube, to a canned beverage. Sometimes stores that are supposed to be open till 8, close and 5, and some that are supposed to close at 6 are still open at 9. The best example occurred on Thursday made me very happy considering it summed up my theory behind the consistent inconsistent nature of Bosnia (not to mention that it made a fantastic adventure). As previously mentioned, we went to Tunnel Spasa on Thursday after our presentation. My parents had rented a car, and although nobody could provide Ana and I with accurate directions to get to the tunnel, we knew it was near the airport, somewhere between Dobrinja and Butmir (two districts in the west end of the city). The closest answer we could get to directions was to get to the roundabout, take the 3rd exit, and take the road till you come to the end, and go right. After turning right, we were to ask someone where to go. So we did exactly that, and we started our amazing rat race driving through most of the small neighborhoods, and through the farm-like countryside. This is how majority of the conversations went when we stopped and asked strangers for directions on the side of a deserted street (I’ve taken the liberty to translate into English haha):

Ana: “Excuse me, could you tell us how to get to Tunnel Spasa?”
Stranger: “Tunnel Spasa?”
Ana: “Yeah, Tunnel Spasa, or the Tunnel of life”
Stranger: “Ahh.. yes, Tunnel Spasa… well, you’re going to turn around, take your third left, second or third right, over one or two bridges, then ask someone where to go next.”
Ana: Okay, Cao!

And so on and so on. So we went left, then right, then drove over a few bridges, then asked someone. Then we turned around, took a different left, a different right, over a few bridges, then asked someone. This went on for a solid 40 minutes, driving around, until we met a fine gentlemen that gave us what seemed like the most accurate directions yet (including accurate counts of lefts and rights, and driving approximately 500m), and then there will be a sign. A sign… excellent, considering it’s a museum, and we hadn’t seen a sign for it yet. So, we followed his accurate directions, and then cheered when we saw the sign to turn left for Tunnel Spasa. This cheering stopped when we realized there was nothing there, except for a few private houses, and abandoned huts, and fields. We then talked to people who were at the house, and they explained that this is where the tunnel started back during the war, but it’s now private property and the other side was where the museum was (only a short 800m away). The problem, the airport was in the way, so we had to go around. So the adventure continued, and eventually we decided to take a cab, and have Dad follow in the car (considering we had been driving for over an HOUR at this time). So it was an adventure, and we were very excited when we finally got there. So the moral of the story is… if you’re ever lost, take a left, a right, then ask someone else. Or take a taxi.

Tunnel Spasa

After our adventures to Tunnel Spasa, we went shopping for games, books and sports equipment for the centre. We bought them lots of fun things, and we were so excited to give it to them on Friday morning. Thursday night, we went out for a lovely dinner up on the hill on the south side of the river, and it overlooked the whole city. It was beautiful, although it did get a bit chilly. We then went to celtic for a drink, to only run into more friends. We then headed home around 1am, to emotionally prepare ourselves for our Friday filled with goodbyes.

Friday was a whirlwind of a day. Our last tram ride out to the centre, bearing gifts for the centre. It was a crazy day at the centre, because it was their last day open until September, so everyone was cleaning, and getting everything prepared to lock up for August. We had a crazy group evaluation, where all the professionals and some mothers gave their input to our evaluation. Fortunately, they had nothing but positive things to say. We hung out most of the day, had our final coffee, and they gave us each a vase, and some cards that the kids made. I shed a few tears saying our final vidimo se to the mothers and the kids. They have taught us so much about the power of love and hope, lessons that I’ll never forget.

Our final farewell with some of the kids.

Friday night was lots of fun. We had our Raja (Hana, Nermin, Sonja, Brooke, Kate, Natasa, Heidi and Jim) at our place for some drinks. Hana and Nermin bought us each 2 bottles of homemade Rakija, and decorated the bottles for us with inside jokes. They are honestly the nicest people, and we will forever be in touch. We laughed and embraced our last night together. We then went to Pirates, our favourite Balkanika club, and danced the night away, dreading the night coming to a close. After our time at Pirates, we headed to Barhana for a final toast to friendship, which was proceeded with the longest goodbye to our friends in the streets of Sarajevo. Some photos of our Raja.

We returned to the house around 5am, only to have to wake up at 5:40 so I could hop in the car with my parents and drive to Dubrovnik to catch our boat. Well, we slept in, having a slight panic attack when my parents are ringing our doorbell at 6am. It was a good thing that I packed the night before. It was an even better thing that I was meeting up with Ana and Natasa in Hvar a few days later (to bring me the things I forgot, and to say our goodbyes).

So we are now on a beautiful boat, and sailing the Croatian coast. It is absolutely beautiful with the rugged green islands, contrasted with the crystal clear blue ocean. We’ve been island hopping, spending our days snorkeling, reading, and making friends with the other people on our boat. It is an international mix of Spanish, South African, Greek, Italian, German, British, Croatian, and Australian. We’re having a lot of fun, and there’s a good mix of ages, so everyone is happy. We met up with Ana and Natasa on the island of Hvar, for our final dinner and drinks until October. It was sad saying goodbye to Ana. She’s been the most fantastic person to travel and work with. We both said we couldn’t envision doing our CD placement with anyone else in the world. We made a fantastic team, and even better, had a great time.

I should get going, it’s almost time for dinner. I hope this finds you all in good health and happiness. I can’t wait to see you all when I get home (or back to Ontario!). Keep in touch! xoxo

Raja

Another exciting week is coming to a close in Sarajevo, and in 8 days, I will be saying my final "Vidimo Se" to this fantastic city and to our new friends and family we have made here. On the topic of friendship, I was introduced to a term yesterday that explains the mentality of most people and a phenomenon we've experienced here in the Balkans. The word is Raja, and it refers to your crew, gang, homies, or circle of friends.

I'm normally fairly talkative (some people may consider this an understatement), and ever since I was a child, I haven't had many issues making friends (I'm pretty sure it's genetic, considering my parents and brother aren't of the shy variety either). Since we've arrived, we've noticed that people, although super friendly, are hesitant to let you into their world. While we've been in the Balkans, Ana and I have gone out, people will stare at us, and smile at us, but rarely invite us to join them for a drink, or talk to us at all for that matter. This is much different than other places I've visited, or life back in Canada, where people go out with friends, but aren't opposed to meeting new people, and are often welcoming to the idea. We met up with our new friend, Sonja last night, who studies in Australia with Cary. She is originally from Bosnia, but moved to Australia in 1996. She was the one who introduced the concept of Raja, and suddenly our world made sense again. Balkan people, especially Bosnian's, have their Raja (often a solid group of 8-12 people, sometimes more, rarely less), they do everything with their Raja, and if your Raja is out of town, you're hooped. Period the end. So needless to say, it's been difficult and effortful for Ana and I to penetrate our way into a Raja. We started to figure out the concept of Raja a few weeks back, and Ana and I more took this as a challenge, setting SMART goals for ourselves to slowly start building a "Raja". I'm happy to report that we now have a Raja. Our original Raja members were Ana, Hana, Nermin and I, but it's slowly growing consisting of Cary, Sonja, and a few others that we've met. We're still accepting new members (as the Canadians that we are), and my parents and Ana'a sister will become members at their arrival on Tuesday and Wednesday! My parents, the fantastic Heidi and Jim, are currently in Croatia, and heading to Sarajevo on Tuesday to see what Ana and I are doing here. My Mom booked us to go on a sailing trip of the Dalmation Coast for a week, and it will be nice to spend quality time with them (me beating my Dad at multiple games of crib, and Mom and I exchanging books in quality bibliotherapy, soaking up some rays, and exploring various islands we stop at), as long as we don't kill eachother being stuck on the same vessel for that long. It'll be much better than my alternative plans would have been, and needless to say I'm very excited to see them, and I'm sure they'll be happy that I've brought them to another part of the world, that may have not been on the top of their list previously. I strongly feel that everyone should come to the Balkans, they are AMAZING, and they'll capture your heart, with or without a Raja.

The Sarajevo Film Festival has started, and the streets are PACKED with people. I'm pretty certain the regular population has tripled, and the pedestrian streets are filled with the world's people, including Mr. Morgan Freeman, who I'm determined to meet. It probably won't happen, but a girl can dream (not for the fact that I want to jump his bones, but the fact that he is amazingly talented, and he'd be so interesting to talk to). Tomorrow, we're going to 2 films (we bought tickets to one, and got a 2 for 1 combo). We're going to see "The Long Road through Balkan History", which I'm pretty stoked to see. The history of the Balkans is so interesting, and I feel that the more I learn, the more I'm intrigued. As much as I love Canada, our history is fairly dull (to be fair, we're a very young country and there are houses here older than Canada). I was also young during the war here, and our school system didn't touch much upon the cultural or religious conflicts, nor many other world events such as the Berlin wall, Rawanda or other recent major events that have shaped our world. But I guess it's our experiences that open our eyes to the rest of the world, and I'm sure glad there's Wikipedia for quick access to such information, considering I don't have the bank account to get first hand knowledge.

Again, Ana and I are working away (I'm pretty sure we've double our required hours- maybe we're attempting too much? Never...) even though it's Saturday, and we'll work again tomorrow. Ana and I are a good team, where I'm putting together stuff in English, and she translates it. The website we're producing for them may be completed after we've left. Ana and I have already discussed (with our Raja) the fact that we'll be back sooner than later. Ana and I are also brainstorming fundraising options and ideas that we can take on back in Canada (Ana in Toronto and me in Vancouver) for Radost Zivota. We may be working with them for the rest of our lives. They've stolen our hearts, and I don't think we'll ever get them back.

Miss you all. Besos y Abrazos (xoxo)

Every Girls Dream

So we are into week 4 of 5, and we're not really happy about our little time left. Ana and I have been busy busy working on our project. After a full 2 week needs assessment and collaboration with everyone at the centre, we have finally figured out what we are doing (we think)! It'll be a mish-mash of this and that, creating a package, and educating/presenting the information to the centre on July 29th! We are creating 2 programs (one for the mothers and another for the members), making recommendations regarding behavioural interventions for some of the behavioural issues at the centre, recommendations regarding program structure, and creating a website for the organization. So we have a lot of work to do, but we're having a great time doing it. We're now only going into the centre Monday, Wednesdays and Fridays, and focusing the rest of our time at a cafe, doing research, and creating programs, focusing on group theory and practice. Our group for the mothers is on mother education and acceptance of their child's disability, and we're creating a group regarding puberty and sexuality for the members. If anyone has any information regarding any of these topics, PLEASE send them our way! We're totally open to suggestions, research, activities, discussion topics, etc.

The last 2 weeks, Ana and I have been so busy doing our needs assessment, that we're now just spending quality time with the members and mothers. I must say, I missed just hanging out with them, having fun during music therapy, bibliotherapy, art class, group talk and free time. The moms are busy working away on their project, weaving curtains, for a fashion show, but we get to spend time with them over coffee, and while they work. We've tried helping, but we're still considered "guests", but we'll keep trying to help. They really are the most fun and energetic group of individuals (the mothers, members, and professionals), and we continue to leave with nothing but smiles after a good dose of laughter therapy.

Onto more interesting topics...

I feel it is an obligation as a female human being to comment on the toilets in Eastern Europe. Until today, I thought there was 3 types of excretion devices: the traditional toilet, the flushable hole in the ground, and the bidet. Now I know it's every girls dream is to pee standing up, and it is now a reality here in Sarajevo. Let me explain. Ana and I have been spending some significant time working away at Vatra, the single cafe in town that has WiFi. I had been to the bathroom a few times, and in the washroom is a toilet and beside it is what I wrote off as a bidet. Today, Ana came back from the washroom and commented on it, forcing me to go and investigate, proving that it is indeed a long, cylindrical device known as a female urinal. A female urinal you may ask? Yes.. it's true, and there were two 8.5x11 black and white framed photos above the urinal that acted as instructions. The photos were of a woman, who was completely naked (who goes to the washroom--especially in a public space-- completely naked!?), in two various positions. The first photo instructs you to stand directly overtop the urinal, with a slight pelvic thrust, in ready position (ie//knee bend). I'm assuming this is the optimal position, but, as the photos suggest, one can opt for the traditional squat. I'm gearing up the confidence to try this urinal (ie// packing extra clothes for any sudden mishaps), but needless to say, I'm intrigued.

So my friend Cary has arrived in Sarajevo, and I couldn't be more excited to have her here! We've been friends since we were 5, and she has been off in Melbourne for the past 2 years working on her law degree. She was in Geneva completing an intensive course, and she decided to come visit, in attempt to recreate a classier second edition of our crazy European adventures from 3 years ago. She arrived last night, and although I had to do a bunch of work today, we've spent a lot of time catching up, showing her around the city, and of course, exposing her to the wonders of Balkanika. After 4 weeks of intense dedication and exposure to the amazing balkan beats, Ana and I are, what I could only explain as experts on the topic of Balkan pop culture. I know I have commented on Balkanika previously, but with increased exposure over the past few weeks, we have noticed some key themes in comparison to American pop culture. Throughout Canada and America, the music scene is driven by children and teens, infactuated with young pop stars like Miley Cyrus, the Jonas Brothers and Justin Beiber (or while I was growing up-- the boy band culture known as N'Sync, BSB, and New Kids on the Block). I feel here, it is the opposite, where music gets better with age. On all the Balkanika we've seen, there hasn't been an exploited child star, but rather Balkan stars bloom in their late 20's and produce amazing tunes into their 50's. It's refreshing, and with a little more practice with the language, I feel that I too, can finally become a star.

Hope everything is well!! Miss you all! xoxo

Igman

Well, the events and fun don't stop here in Sarajevo. Ana and I have been busy with "school" and life in general. Friday, the centre was planning excursion to Igman, home of the ski jump and some downhill events of the 1984 Winter Olympic Games here in Sarajevo. The members at the centre have been excited about this for weeks, and the day finally arrived. We had to be at the centre early, and the entire day was sponsored by "TWI 4 kids", an organization that has been working with children and families in Sarajevo and the Balkans since the end of the war. TWI was started by a wonderful woman named Bobby, and she collaborated and supported the founders of Radost Zivota when they started up in 2002. TWI and Radost Zivota have been connected ever since, and TWI still financially supports Radost Zivota so they can remain in operation. So Ana and I learned a lot about the beginning stages of the centre, and it was fantastic to collaborate with the other volunteers from TWI. TWI runs workshops for children and families with and without disabiltiies but that have been affected by the war. They feel that children are the best way to achieve love and reconciliation post-war. So they put on a day camp for Radost Zivota filled with stories, music, dancing, arts & crafts, and sports, and we all had a fantastic day together.
During lunch, Hana, Nermin, Ana and I climbed up 234 stairs and then some to the top of the ski jump, which overlooked the valley below. When we got to the bottom, TWI had arranged for the volunteers, and professionals to take the chairlift to the top of the mountain. So without thinking about it, we hopped on the sketchiest chairlift I've ever been on and were heading to the top. Shortly into our journey, I then thought about the possible safety issues with us taking this chair. Although it was hot and happening in 1984, the region was then occupied through the war by the UN, and honestly looks abandoned and unused since 1992. Asking it's owners about it's usage, they merely stated that it's used "as needed" throughout the summer. What the means is anyone's guess. But it was fun and beautiful from the top. The day was filled with fun, love, laughter, new friends and new places. We will remain in contact with those people from TWI, and they suggested we join their tour through the Balkans next year.


Saturday morning rolled around, and because Sarajevo is blistering hot, Ana and I decided to seek refuge from the one and only outdoor public pool in Sarajevo, but it was an adventure. Ana and I didn't get a lot of sleep the night before, but we woke up at 9:30 and sucked it up and took the 45 minute tram ride to the end of the line. We then, got lost in the heat, and were unsure whether or not we'd make it to our final destination alive. Alas, we made it, to only be faced with a 20 minute, sweat dripping line to enter. But once we got inside, it was the craziest waterpark with something for everyone: multiple pools, a wave pool, waterslides, rock climbing, bungee jumping, hot tubs, bouncy castles, bars and much much more. It was so nice to cool off, considering we've had a week of profuse sweating.

We went out with Hana and Nermin on Saturday night. We started off business like, where Ana and I completed our interview with them, and then ditched the computer, and we went out for dinner and drinks. We had a hilarious night, laughing and drinking the night away, enjoying eachothers company. We exchanged stories, and joked around all night. They're probably 2 of our favourite people in Sarajevo, and we're making plans to hang out again this week. It's sad to think that we have less than 2 weeks left here.

Today (Sunday) was a day of work for Ana and I. So we headed to a cafe, reviewed the interviews, and did research, working away on our project. We have a better idea of what we're doing, and after tomorrow, we should be well on our way. When leaving the cafe, we stumbled across the best street performers we'd ever seen! They are a group of travelling, musically talented, Swiss friends, each of them has an instrument (trumpet, sax, guitar, maracas, cowbell, drums, trombone, etc), and they play together in the most joyous, and harminous of ways. They looked like they were having so much fun, dancing around barefoot, playing, composing and conducting their own music. I've tried uploading a few of the videos I took of them, and they aren' t working. I'll try again later, cause it was honestly the best street performance I've ever seen. I have more to report on, but my bed is calling, and it's time I catch some zzz's before another amazing week!

xoxo

Trends and Secrets

Cao drugarica (hey friends)! How art thou all?! Today is a hot and sweaty day here in Sarajevo, but beautiful none the less. Ana and I had another full day at the centre, working on our needs assessments. I feel like I keep saying that we're "ALMOST" done, but we truly are. There are many pressing issues going on at the centre, so emotions have been running high. The mothers are under a lot of stress in attempt to finish the curtains they're making for the fashion show, and there are a few family issues with some of the members. With a lot of the trauma that has occurred in these people's lives during the war, I don't doubt that a lot of them suffer from post tramatic stress disorder. Over coffee it some of the past and present issues brought up and it was explained that with new issues that arise in their lives (a sickness or death of a loved one, etc), they are hit with a whole wave of past emotions in combination with their current feelings and fears. But they managed to collectively support eachother, and move forward bearing grins and laughter to get through the day!

Our first interview was with Silva, the defectologist who is capable of speaking for an hour straight on a single breath, and needless to say, it took 1.5 hours to complete an interview that should take about 20 minutes. But we love her dearly, and she gave us a lot of insight and depth of the social issues not just at Radost Zivota, but in Bosnia in general. She explained a lot of the themes and topics that she discusses in workshops, what's worked, and what hasn't worked in the past. She has the largest heart, and explained that you can't do anything without hope for a better tomorrow. She explained how the economy in Bosnia is still suffering tremendously, and although the best thing for the "kids" would be for them to get jobs, how are they supposed to get jobs when the unemployment rate is already through the roof? The job market is so competitive for every job, regardless if you're a city worker or a rocket scientist. But she talked a lot about the positive aspects of the centre, and the hope she has for it's future.

We carried on with more interviews, only to be interrupted by Nermin calling us for lunch that Hana had prepared. Nermin said that Ana and I are so Canadian, working non-stop. Comparing the work ethic between Europe and North America is like comparing apples and bicycles- they're polar opposites, with Ana and I stuck somewhere in the middle. We're in a constant battle between getting everything done in our utmost efficient and studious manner, and taking it easy, embracing and capturing the cultural essense of our surroundings. We managed a balance of both today, spending time with the mothers, the professionals, the members, and getting our interviews done.

The members are getting VERY excited, as there is a planned outing on Friday to Igman, one of the Olympic sites from the 1984 Winter Olympic Games here in Sarajevo. It is an excursion planned and paid for by a group of Americans that are here visiting. We don't know much else about the day, but the members are preparing. We found out that the region is known to have snakes and tics, and we are to prepare ourselves for that (I already have anxiety). But Ana and I walked into the group room today while Silva was facilitating some group discussion and I learned some new tips and important Bosnian lessons regarding sun safety. It all started when Ana and I sat down, and Silva commented on the differences between Ana and I's skin. I being the blonde hair, blue eyed and pale human I am, should be careful in the sun (this part I already knew... I've been battling a heat rash for 10 days now!), and should maybe consider using sunscreen if I'll be in the sun for long periods of time. But IF I were to get a burn, I great remedy is 1) JOGURT (amazing thin plain yogurt that is found throughout the Balkans--try it.. it'll change your life) that is known to "pull out your burn", 2) a cold beer (not to drink, but to use topically on your skin), or 3) cold water and soap. If I'm looking to get a great rich brown tan, Silva suggests that I mix half a bottle of olive oil with half a bottle of beer. I don't care how great the tan is, it wont make up for the stickiness of your skin (you ever had beer spilled on you at the bar- not fun!) and millions of bee stings you'll get. So, again, I pass on the great ancient knowledge of these fabulous people. I'm sure they'll be more I'll learn as the days go on...

I must comment on some of the current hair styles throughout Europe and the Balkans. A few years ago, when I lived in Spain, I was infactuated with the plethora of styles and various European flares of the classic mullet (you know, business in the front and party in the back). Although this is one of the reasons I refused to get my hair cut in the year and a half I lived in Madrid, it was always a sight seeing a multi-coloured or dreadlocked mullet, the she-mull (the almost stylish female mullet), the skullet (bald on top, long in the back), and so and so on. It was always a great day when you saw a beautiful or strange and amazing mullet, leaving you with a smile on your face, and a story to tell the next friend you saw (considering most people shared my appreciation for mullets). Well over 2 years later, you still do see mullets running around, and although I haven't lost my appreciation for a unique mullet, I have a new infactuation.... rat tails or RT for short.

Rat tails are thin strips of hair that flow off the back of peoples (generally short) hair. They are sometimes braided (BRT for braided rat tail), sometimes long (LRT), sometimes dreadlocked (DRT), and they sometimes protrude from various areas of one's head. But today we saw the most beautiful combination of a thick long dreadlocked RT (TLDRT) protruding from the top of his occipital lobe (mid-skull), and 2 BRT protruding from the base of his skull on either side of the TLDRT that were half as short. Ana and I were speechless in it's beauty, and have named it "The Trio", and we're certain it has magical powers and is the answer to many of life's unexplained events.

After "The Trio", there is nothing else I can say about today, and we should get back to work over a glass of appropriately priced European wine! Miss thee!

Beograd i Utorak

Well Ana and I have arrived back in Sarajevo, safe and sound, after a wonderful weekend in Belgrade, Serbia. As you may know, Ana's family is from Belgrade, and they moved to Canada when Ana was 4. All of her grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins still live in Serbia and the Balkans, so I had the privilege of meeting her Baba (Grandma) on her mom's side, her Baba and Deda (on her Dad's side), her Aunt (Lili), her cousin (Senja), and her Mom (Snezana). Snezana was visiting Belgrade, her family and friends, for a few weeks, and I was so thrilled to be there while she was there. Her whole family were loving, caring, and wonderful people, sharing stories of culture and history with me. We arrived late on Friday night, and talked with Snezana and Baba over ajvar jogurt and some little savory things from the famous pekara (bakery), Toma.


Saturday, Ana and I headed to Ado (a lake in Belgrade) to enjoy a little bibliotherapy and relaxation in the hot sun. We then headed back to the apartment, by taking our time walking through the streets of Belgrade. We had dinner with her mom, and then we surprised Lili (Ana's aunt) who was arriving home after vacation in Turkey. She didn't know Ana was going to be there, and boy was she excited. After chatting with Lili, Snezana and Baba, Ana and I headed to her cousin, Sanja, family's cafe, to catch the end of the consolation final of World Cup, between Germany and Uruguay. Being the Canadian that I am, I was rooting for the underdogs (who put up at great fight) but they were defeated by Germany. We hung out at had some drinks at the cafe with Sanja and her friend Jelena, and then headed to the river. Belgrade is situated where the Sava and Danube rivers meet, and the nightclubs are unique as they are floating clubs right on the river. We had a lot laughs, the music was great, and it was a different experience to feel the club rock and sway as the club got busier and louder. You had to be careful when putting your drink down, and it was best to have a few sips of a full glass as a precaution against spillage.


The next day, Ana and I headed to her Baba and Deda's house for a morning visit. Her grandparents are lovely, and hilarious. Her Deda speaks fantastic English, and I was able to communicate a few phrases with her Baba in English and Serbian. We had a great visit, and then Ana and I headed into the city to explore the sights. We headed to Kalemegdan Park via the pedestrian walkways of the centre, lined with shops, cafes, and street vendors. Kalemegdan Park is an old perserved fortress, overlooking the Sava and Danube rivers below, dating back as early as the 1st century. It is a collective mix of Roman ruins, Turkish and Austrian/Hungarian walls, towers, and structures making up the oldest part of Belgrade, and currently a park occupied by elderly chess players, musicians, performers, friends, tourists and couples in love.

After spending only a day in Europe, it's not hard to observe that parks are the PDA (public display of affection) hotspots of any city. Most Europeans live at home until they're married, and parks are seen as a great place to get some loving. So needless to say, the days are hot and the nights are warm, and the couples were seen out and about in full force.

Kalemegdan Park was beatiful, with lots to see, and then Ana and I headed back home to shower and get ready for the nights festivities. We had some dinner that her aunt prepared (that was AMAZING-- I'll comment on the food later!), and then headed out to watch the World Cup Final, Spain vs Netherlands. We found an outdoor cafe that was playing the game, had some beers, and watched (in my opinion) the slowest, most uneventful 120 minutes of midfield keep away. Although I was very happy with the outcome of the game (VIVA ESPANA!!!), it was lacking the excitement of fantastic attacks, shots, saves and defense that should have occurred in a World Cup final game. Anyways, long game short, Spain won, and that's all that matters!! We then went back to Kalemegdan park, to a cafe/pub that had a live band, had some drinks and wasted the night away. The band, however, were amazing, and we could have listened to them for HOURS (well- we did haha). We met 2 of the most interesting fools on our walk home, who were strange, yet hilarious. We found our new friends entertaining, and like all European males, they walked us home, to ensure our safety and enjoy our company.

Monday, we woke up early, and explored the city for the morning, enjoying the last little bit of Belgrade before getting on our 7 hour bus ride home. Lili and Snezana fed us one last amazing homecooked meal before our trip, and we waved goodbye to them, as our bus took off, and our "workday" began. Ana and I then engaged in discussion about the survey's and interviews that we have completed with the mothers and members, and then came up with a loose framework for our interviews that we'll conduct this week with Nermin, Hana, Olga, and Silva (the professionals at the centre), and then different questions with Hasena and Azra (the co-founders). Once we finished our "workday", we were entering the mountainous zones of Serbia, and the natural beauty continued until the sunset, and we arrived in Sarajevo.

This morning, we arrived at the centre for 9am, and were warmly greeted by Hana. We had morning coffee with her, and caught up regarding our weekend festivities. We also discussed where we're at with our project, and how everything is going. We decided that our interviews with Hana and Nermin will be away from the centre, so it doesn't take away from therapy/group time. I'm not sure if a needs assessment over pivo (beer) is allowed in Canada, but they suggested it, so Ana and I are deeming it culturally appropriate, and we're planning to meet up one night this week to interview as professionals, followed by a fun night with good friends.

The centre is always filled with unpredictable events, and we never know what each day will bring. Today, again, was one of those days. Ana and I managed to get almost all the remainder of our interviews completed, shuffling around to different corners and rooms in the centre, struggling to find a quiet place to interview some of the more complex individuals. Over morning coffee, Hana informed Ana and I that one of the members had fallen on her face pretty horribly, knocked out a few teeth, scraped her gums, and isn't doing too well. Hasena then received news that her sister-in-law had gone to emergancy, but they couldn't find her. Olga's daughter and son-in-law paid the centre a visit in the afternoon. Olga's daughter is a pediatrician, and her husband is a pediatric neurologist, and they are visiting from Germany. They apparently do some consultation with the centre, and do annual "check ups" with the members. So although there were some tears shed today, the members and mothers came together for eachother, and the laughter, chatter and banter ensued over afternoon coffee. I managed to contribute 3 new sentences to coffee this afternoon, which was praised and I was congratulated, and forced to repeat for those who didn't hear me the first time. The Mothers then said that I now need to find a husband, and stay in Sarajevo forever! We came to an agreement that I just need to stay in contact, and never forget about them. Even with the dementia that runs in my family, I swear I will never forget my time here. Each and every person puts a smile on my face, and I'm always happy and excited to go to placement every morning.

Although Ana and I do most of our own cooking here in our apartment, the food in the region is so simple, yet delicious. I don't know what it is, but the food is so fresh and doesn't require spice or sauce. Ana and I often just have salad with a little olive oil, or we through chicken and vegetables into a pan, pop it in the oven, and it comes out as the greatest meal! It was similar as the meals that Snezana and Lili cooked us in Belgrade. So simple, so healthy, yet so delicious. I guess something can be said for quality ingredients. I have learned the essentials are garlic, onion and olive oil.

But I should get going. I bought a Bosnian magazine today, and I'm going to go attempt to read it. It may take me 2 weeks, but I'm determined, with the help of my dictionary and Ana, to get through it. Wish me luck!

xoxo

Balkan Express

Cao Friends!
I’m writing as I’m on a bus (the "Balkan Express") making a 7.5-hour trek to Belgrade, Serbia for the weekend. The “highways” are narrow and winding through the beautiful luscious green, mountainous countryside. Periodically we’ll pass a small town, or a bus stop in the middle of nowhere, and pick up or drop off passengers along the way. We’ve passed through hundreds of small farming towns nestled in the mountain valleys, or villages built into the mountainside. Steep cliffs with rives and lakes running through it, and fisherman attempting to catch tonight’s dinner. I’m in awe of the pristine beauty, and that as a roadside observer, appear to be 100 years behind the times. Ana and I are off to visit her family in Belgrade this weekend, and I couldn’t be more excited. A place filled with different culture, sights, sounds, and people- just my cup of tea.

The past two days, Ana and I have been busy at the centre, conducting interviews with the members. They were semi-structured interviews, based on the COPM (addressing self-care, productivity and leisure) to find common trends, wants, needs, themes and gaps between members, but also addressing Radost Zivota; how it helps them and what can be improved. We have been interviewing the people that we see daily, that participate in the program (that they call workshops—a mix of art, music, sports, excursions, motor development, and socializing). There are members that we have only met once or twice, that attend for 1 on 1 therapy with Hana, Nermin, Silva or Olga. We have been collecting valuable information, but our uncertainty regarding our project is still at the max. I think our biggest difficulty is that the members that attend workshop daily are the same group of about 20-30 individuals ranging in age from 10-39, ranging in diagnosis from autism to cerebral palsy, from learning disabilities to psychiatric conditions. Some individuals have no insight into their disability, while others have insight, fully understand their disability, yet have the greatest perspective. Disability seems to be something of a mystery around here, and not really openly talked about—especially learning disabilities or cognitive impairments. We know that a few of the members didn’t receive proper intervention or prevention during the war, and then they seemed to fall to the wayside post-war due to the large number of other social and medical issues the country was dealing with. Some individuals have parents that do everything for them, while others lost their parents in the war. Radost Zivota does the most amazing job operating on a zero budget, but the raw truth is that they function from grant to grant, scraping by on pennies. The centre itself is far too small the number of people that attend, and would probably be considered a fire hazard in Canada to have that many people in such a small space. It’s apparent that all of the members could benefit from individual therapy, but our goal is to impact the collective community. So whatever Ana and I suggest has to cost nothing, can’t require lots of space, and impacts a spectrum of individuals. So far, apparent themes that could be addressed are: sexuality and disability, self-care needs, activities that promote independence, self-esteem building, disability awareness, and life skills (mainly cooking, and transportation). We’ll be continuing our needs assessment next week with more interviews, and some focus groups. I’ll be updating with more findings, but we’re always open to suggestions, so please feel free to comment!!

So Ana and I have now been in Sarajevo for 2 weeks, and we’re getting are adjusting just nicely. It’s sad to think that we only have 3 weeks left, but excited for the adventure to come. We’re getting more comfortable walking and running in the streets. We still get stared at while running, as if we had 3 eyes, but I don’t think that’s going to change. I’m starting to comprehend the slightly organized chaos that is European driving. People are really good at laying on the horn around here, and I can now distinguish between a friendly hello, and road rage. Driving appears to be a mastered skill, but I’m surprised we don’t see more accidents. It still worries me that motorists don’t wear helmets (even small children), and people don’t wear seatbelts in the backseats of cars. I managed to go to a stand, and buy an onion independently the other day (woo hoo!), and I’m able to understand some words and phrases embedded within speech. Hana, Nermin, Ana and the kids are great at teaching me vocabulary. Hana and Nermin started teaching me “key” phrases one should know (mostly slang haha), while Ana remains my lifeline and greatest teacher of all, celebrating my small successes. I think her brain wants to explode some days constantly engaged in one language or another. My frustration with not understanding the world around me or being able to express myself is driving me nuts!! There’s only so many times you can ask someone how they are, what they’re doing, how they slept, or randomly spurt out simple vocab words regarding your surroundings. How productive is it if you were trying to engage in conversation with someone who can just say “chair, table, window, sky, cloud, sun, eye, nose, hair, milk, coffee, peach” and then counts from 1-10 (although I ensure you, I know more words than that). I can also be seen attempting to speak Spanish, just because it’s the foreign language I do now, and when English doesn’t work, I may as well try option #2. Needless to say, I’m gaining a huge lesson on how much we rely on verbal communication.

Balkanika song of the day is a Romanian beat... needless to say, it's unreal! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uv8nGq-XMQM&feature=PlayList&p=DD201CFC3AE0ECA9&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=4

Well, we’re in Belgrade now settled in with Ana's amazing family! Her mother is the nicest lady, her Grandma is adorable and I'm excited to meet the rest of her family! So I'll update after the weekend! I miss you all, and I hope you all have a great weekend! BC’ers, enjoy the summer weather you’re finally getting! Ontario, try to stay cool from the heat wave! And to the rest of you, just enjoy whatever is coming your way!! xoxo